M2 Hotend Assembly
This picture shows (almost) all of the tools and parts required to assemble a V3B hotend. The only omitted items are a 1.5mm Allen wrench, and the PTFE tape that is included with the V3B hotend kit. 1.jpg
The contents (again with PTFE tape omitted) of the V3B hotend kit. 2.jpg
The tools required for a full V3B hotend assembly (including assembling the heater block, which normally ships assembled) (again with 1.5mm Allen wrench omitted). A set of diagonal cutters, one 11mm wrench or socket wrench, and two 10mm wrenches. 3.jpg
The tools required for an average kit assembly: one 11mm wrench or socket wrench, and two 10mm wrenches. 4.jpg
To assemble the aluminum heater block, first take the M2 setscrew and start threading it into the tapped hole in what will be the rear of the heater block. Then insert the cartridge heater (with red wires) into the heater block so that the end is flush with the right side of the block, with the wires extending out to the left (if looking at the setscrew side of the block, with the setscrew on the left as well). 5.jpg
Tighten the setscrew down as much as possible, then bend the red cartridge heater wires up at a 90° angle, approximately 1/2" from the heater block. 7.jpg
Insert the metal thermistor in the small hole underneath the cartridge heater, then loosely attach the zipties around one wire of the cartridge heater and the thermistor cable. Create a small bow in the thermistor cable at the bend in the cartridge heater wire, to prevent the thermistor from being pulled from the heater block if the cartridge heater wires bend. Then tighten the zipties to keep the bow in place, and clip off the excess ziptie material. 9.jpg
The tools required to assemble the barrel and nozzle. 13.jpg
Thread the two M6 nuts onto the barrel, to about the mid-point. Then use the two 10mm wrenches to tighten them against eachother, locking them in place. 14.jpg
Then thread the nozzle onto one end of the barrel until it is finger tight. Take one 10mm wrench and the 11mm wrench/socket wrench; place the 10mm wrench on the M6 nut farthest from the nozzle, and use the 11mm wrench to give the nozzle one solid 90° (1/4 of full) turn to secure it onto the barrel. 18.jpg
Use the two 10mm wrenches to remove the M6 nuts from the barrel. 20.jpg
Thread the barrel into the aluminum heater block; there is a curved section on one longer edge of the block - the top of the nozzle should seat against that curve. Tighten the heater block onto the barrel as tight as possible by hand, then use the 11mm wrench to apply one last bit of force to achieve a very solid connection. 22.jpg
Cut a 5" section of PTFE thread sealing tape, and then wrap it onto the threads of the barrel, starting at the top, farthest from the nozzle; wrap in a clockwise direction (when looking at the top of the barrel, nozzle farthest away), so that when you thread on the V3 PEEK insulator it will not cause the PTFE thread sealing tape to unwrap from the barrel. Then use your finger to smooth the tape into the threads all the way down. 25.jpg
Thread the V3 PEEK insulator onto the barrel, over the PTFE thread sealing tape. Tighten it until the gap between the top of the aluminum heater block, and the bottom of the V3 PEEK insulator, measures 2.5 to 3.0mm. If you require more force you can use the 11mm wrench to hold and turn the nozzle, but do _not_ use pliers or any other tool to grip the V3 PEEK insulator - it can deform or break if too much force is applied, causing either leaking or even destruction of the V3 insulator. 27.jpg
Install the flexible black rubber insulation, by folding back the small section, and feeding the cartridge heater and thermistor wires through the wider section. Work the wider section onto the aluminum heater block, then fold the thin section back over and work it onto the left side of the block. 30.jpg