Table of Contents
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Assembly Instructions
Whole Machine
Please see the excellent instructions at https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1yWRVPTOax8xDhF92GWmMOm8izQn5R2MJz1NYHC3MZUw&pli=1
Specific Parts
- Hot end & thermistor plug's female pins go into the plastic bit with the little holes on the business end, the male pins with the bigger holes on the business end of the plastic bit.
- Speaking of parts, you can find the files for all the parts to print out copies at ___ and https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel
- Extruder
- The tension block has a right side and left side and a front side & back side.
- The thicker side towards the extruder gear
- The thinner side towards the motor
- The tension block has a right side and left side and a front side & back side.
Pre-powerup Walkthrough
Before you plug in your printer, double check these things first.
- Power Connection
- The small square plug goes to the plug on the RAMPS board labeled 11A.
- The molex (hard drive connector) goes to the plug on the RAMPS board labeled 5A and connects to the yellow wire.
- Check RAMPS
- The pololu stepper control boards and plugged in with the trim pot (Little silver screw) on the side away from the USB jack on the RAMPS board
- turn the pololu trim pots CCW all the way (gently, they don't go all the way around) and turn it clockwise 1/4 of a turn
- NOTE NEVER fiddle with the pololu or unplug/plug in a stepper motor with the power on.
Post Powerup Walkthough
- in pronterface, check the temps. Hot end should read 20 degrees within a couple of degrees as should the heated bed (if you have it plugged in).
Software
- There is no need to install custom firmware
- The arduino package is only needed for the driver (until you are ready to install custom firmware) so the computer can talk to the ReRap
- Follow the Getting Started Guide
- If you do decide to update your firmware, settings can be found at this google doc
Tips & Tricks
First Print
Plastruder retraction settings: 18mm/m and 1.3mm length
A guide for doing your first print written for the Mosiac, but will work for the Prusa: http://makeprojects.com/Project/The-MakerGear-Mosaic-3D-Printer-Part-VIII-The-First-Print/1843/1#.T8USiUVDwsI
PLA
3mm
- ~185C is a good starting point. Every printer will be slightly different due to construction.
- If 185c doesn't work for you, start at 200C and work your way down in 5 degree steps until you find a temperature that works well for you.
1.75mm
~175C
ABS
- ~210C is a good starting point. Every printer will be slightly different due to construction.
- Some filament may require different temperatures, such as 215C or 205C.
Lubrication
The trouble with lubricating a machine with printed parts is that many lubes can damage the plastic parts over time.
Bearings
- White lithium grease
Threaded and Smooth Rods
- PTFE lube
- 3 in 1 oil
- sewing machine oil
Troubleshooting
'talking' to the printer
Printer Movement
If the motors don't do much but squeal or hum when you try to move them, try adjusting the pololus.
- Start with Pre-powerup Walkthrough Step 2
- Adjust slightly up (clockwise) from there.
- If the motors start feeling hot, reset and work down (counterclockwise)
Extrusion
Bed Leveling
Heated Bed
- For ABS you want to get your bed warmer than the power supply wants to provide when running without a 5v load. A 5v load can be http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/m/mg3RR3tcIj_fh2PLvJTioNA/140.jpg <— get one of these, do this with it —> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/DXCMfe-rdn-H1GMnmOiKGA and is also http://stores.ebay.co.uk/The-Motorcycle-Company-Shop/6-Volt-Bulbs-/_i.html?_fsub=2364131014
- People tend to put glass over the top of the heated bed simply to keep it flat. It's about the cheapest flat thing you can find locally. Some users have also had good luck printing on glass mirrors.
User's Machines
Hey, we like to show off our hard work. Here you can show off your MakerGear Prusa Kit, your mods, tips, and things you did to make it work well.
- creuzerm http://mike.creuzer.com/on/reprap
- watercooled hot end
- full temperature monitoring of all motors
- flush-to-wood mounted mirror print bed with mortised in heater PCB & fiber optic indicator light
- drilled binder clip glass mount to less likely to break glass print surface